Saturday, January 25, 2014

Gayfers, Newberry's or Something from Karmelkorn?

Back when the Edgewater Mall on Beach Boulevard was definitely the “It Place” to shop and eat back in the early years of my life, no matter where we lived, I think all my parent’s cars came with an autopilot option that automatically steered itself toward there; and if Mom was driving, it was at a much more rapid pace than if Dad were at the helm. Whether it was when we lived on Byron Drive in Windsor Park, driving a beige 1971 Pontiac Grand Ville with a big V8 motor and a four barrel carb (Mom’s all time favorite car) or eleven years later, when I learned to drive in a tan Buick Century with a gold vinyl half-top, that was garaged not a mile from our beachfront shopping mecca, our cars seemingly held a reserved spot in each lot at the mall.   I was very young when we started going to the mall and this time period holds some of my earliest and fondest memories. 

Though we would go to many, and I heavily stress the word many, of the stores each visit, I know that Gayfers, Godchaux’s, and Newberry’s were always the mainstay of our expeditions to that wonderful place; whose corridors were lined with huge trees in planters and pale green indoor fountains in the common areas where I was allowed to throw pennies into the water.  The corridor that held these fountains, had immense glass roofs that acted as skylights.  Very close to these sunlit expanses is where the Mall management would set up stages for special events such as concerts, fashion shows, contests or sales displays for many years.  In this area was where I met my very first celebrity, Mark Spitz, the Olympic swimmer, as he was stumping for pool chemicals.  I remember this distinctly because this is where I had my picture first taken with Santa Claus and the animated Christmas displays; the place where Charles and I had our pictures taken with a “real live,” as we called it, lion cub, and the place where, dressed in homemade Batman & Robin outfits, we held hands with dozens of other kids, as we all walked in a ring around the fountain to be judged in a Halloween costume contest. Even in later years, I remember singing there with Mrs. Ann Miller’s choir from Fernwood Junior High, and if I’m not mistaken, later with The Biloxians Concert Choir, with Beth and Robert Wiles, Kathleen Smith, Lewis Gamble, Nancy Wilson and many more very talented friends and acquaintances.  Even as an adult, I remember when my company got the Hummer franchise and I called Terry Powell, the Mall manager, and signed a contract to display one of those huge beasts in the northern most corridor, but not too far to the north of the food court.  So, as you may see, this 66 acres of hallowed ground on the beach in Biloxi, holds a special place in my heart for countless reasons.

There was not a food court back then, but there were many places one could go and get anything from a full meal to snacks and refreshments to battle the shopping fatigue that often set in the youngest of patrons.  Many times, we would go into Newberry’s first.  Though long gone from the Mall, it was a discount merchandiser that had everything from dollar store items to things found in a stationary store.  It was there that I was introduced to gardening, when Mom purchased “Punch-N-Grow” tomato trays, and we grew cherry tomatoes on our patio.  The thing that Newberry’s immediately brings to my mind though is the memory of their cafeteria.  It was located on the southeastern corner of what is now JC Penney, where Penney’s once had a hair salon.   I don’t remember much about many of the things they served, but as for my chosen menu when eating there, I can speak with professional authority about the homemade macaroni and cheese, often accompanied by a smothered steak with brown gravy and a homemade roll.  The macaroni was made to the specification of those served at a traditional southern dinner.  It was creamy with what I’m sure would have been a heavy cream béchamel sauce and topped with inordinate amounts of perfectly browned sharp cheddar cheese in every serving.  It was generously scooped out and served in a bone white bowl made to hold just the amount a heaping scoop would convey.   If we arrived at Newberry’s after having already eaten, Mother, often accompanied by my grandparents, Meme and Gran, would have coffee and a piece of pie.  As we as southerners often call any carbonated beverage a Coke, older people of that era, referred to “having a piece of pie” as the catchall phrase for eating a dessert.  I wasn’t left out by any means in this ritual; in fact I often had coffee, though mixed with more milk than that superb tasting Arabica bean blend.  And while most kids would have focused on the dessert, I was ever so excited to get my own personal container of half-and-half.  This cream was served in those triangular shaped packages that were sealed tightly on either end.  They had a hole in the side of the package that was protected by a little waxed paper cover, that one peeled back to access the opening of the container.  With the same anticipation as women at a Bourbon Street bachelorette party doing shots, I would grab that little triangle and empty its contents into my mouth in record time.

A few years later when the Mall had a renovation and Gayfer’s added a second floor of shopping space, they also saw fit to add one of my favorite restaurants of all time, The Copper Kettle.  It was on the top floor, directly behind the furniture and kitchen departments, just past the doors of the elevator.  While a majority of the time, it was just Mom, Charles, and me, this was one of the few places Dad would join us for a meal during the day.  Back in those days, men were working during the day and couldn’t meet the family for lunch, or would choose not to go to a restaurant that was not a steak or seafood place.  Even though this was a restaurant inside of a department store, The Copper Kettle was unique in that they had a huge menu that covered the gambit of what most anyone would ever want to eat.  They had real milk shakes and malts, served directly from the stainless steel mixing cup into a special glass, with a red and white striped paper straw; hot fudge sundaes and banana splits, reminiscent of those I had only seen at mom-and-pop ice cream parlors; homemade chocolate chip cookies, and a list of specialty sandwiches ranging from a double-decker club to fresh made tuna salad on rye toast.  I had gotten older and had already acquired a taste for foods that were generally the fare chosen by older teens and adults.  While I did enjoy their huge hamburger with fresh cut French fries, I generally chose their Blue Plate special.  Most times this consisted of a country fried steak smothered in a peppery white cream gravy, meatloaf in red gravy or some other diner type entrée that was always served with homemade mashed potatoes, a vegetable of either green beans or English peas and a garden salad; of which I chose their house made thousand island dressing.  

There were other places we ate in the Mall or procured certain treats while shopping. If we were in the “new part” of the mall, we would have an orange or pineapple smoothie with a hot dog at Orange Julius; Jaime Commander’s family operated the place, I believe.  If we were in the original Mall section, patty melt plates at the Walgreen Drugs Sidewalk Café, directly across from the fountain was always welcomed.  Or we would go to Karmelkorn, a popcorn and confectionary in the corridor between Food Center (later, the Jitney Jungle) and the pet store, owned and operated by the family of John, Candy, and Lacy Middleton.  This is where we would get a dipped cone of soft-serve ice cream or an Icee and one of their giant pretzels.   If we were there on certain Saturday’s at lunch, we would have a pizza or a reuben sandwich from the Swiss Colony Café, whose back kitchen wall backed up to the front corridor of where Bernie’s used to be located.  Ah, who could forget Bernie’s?  Eating at Bernie’s signifies to me, that time in my life when my parents recognized I was leaving my childhood and moving toward manhood, as it were.  Bernie’s was a bar and grill that had fabulous food, but still to my parents with a “tweener” aged son and a kid attending Popp’s Ferry Elementary, Bernie’s was not a place we got to go very often after 5:00 in the evening.  While they were known for and still are known for their steak sandwich, nine times out of ten we all would order a taco salad and Mississippi Mud cake for dessert.  As so many of these great eateries, shops, and stands have come and gone, I find it very special that the first name mentioned by my children when asked where they would like to eat is Bernie’s, in its present location just across the railroad tracks, north of the mall; taco salads for us, steak sandwiches for them, and Mississippi Mud cake for everyone. Dammit, David Bull, you have my mouth watering now. 


I know it seems that many of these great memories of Edgewater Mall surround food, but I am guessing that a treat was a way for Mom to keep us from being hellions while she shopped, and this was our magnificent prize for being good.  I remember all of those distinct flavors and wonderful aromas that permeated the air, not knowing at that time these would be those smells and tastes that acted as cement to concrete these memories of my childhood in my mind.  These random thoughts are solely my interpretation of what going to Edgewater Mall meant to me as a child, as there are many more stories of the great merchants that operated establishments in the mall and built vast amounts of local capital.  Hopefully at some later date, I will have more time to pen the tales of what these special retailers meant to us and how great local talent served the shopping public in ways that have yet to be duplicated.  Where a majority of stores that inhabit malls all over the country today are big chains and worldwide purveyors of goods, Edgewater Mall was quite unique in that nearly all of the stores, even the big anchor Gayfer’s (where we all reverently bow our heads when that great name from our past is mentioned), were either local or regional merchants that allow it in its present form, to continue to be a regional destination and a draw, as it is still one of the largest indoor (to be read, air-conditioned, by fat men everywhere) shopping mall in the region.   

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